I tried it on for fit and it is good! It will feel better when the outside temperature is below 10C! It is now neatly folded in my cedar chest for the duration of summer.
The Starting Point:
I am good a finding what I need. Sometimes it is not what I want but I do find it fills my needs. I have been picking up fabric at the local thrift shops for years. I have many large pieces of wool for just such a project.
To make my jacket I first needed to resize the pattern for my mature figure. Just adding an inch to the pattern only worked with the hips and bust. As the original pattern is for the wearer of corsets the waist needed to come in. And not just in – the sides needed to be graded with shoulders being left at the original pattern size.
I cut a new muslin in some red cotton that I picked up on the cheap. This muslin will be the interlining of my new jacket. I started with the pieces of silk but when I realized that the pattern would need more tweaking. The silk is another thrift shop find of an oversized designer dress in a beautiful mocha that I undid and repurposed for this project. This new muslin allowed me to baste it together, fit it, rip it apart cut new side back pieces (i have a very broad upper back) and recut the side fronts down for my not so large bust.
It looks good and feels better. I will now recut the silk for the lining once I have adjusted the length on the pieces that were changed. Then I will cut the wool plaid – this time I can match the pattern on the plaid as it is one nice long piece.
The black sleeves shown in the photos is a hemp silk organic cotton blend. It was a small piece left over from when I made kimono’s for me and my partner. They will be a part of the lining as the repurposed silk dress did not have enough for the sleeves.
The lining is now finished. Now on to the wool!
The cuffs with a cotton 12oz canvas inter lining.
An idea of how it will look finished. The red inter lining will not show through the layers but will give added warmth for winter (West Coast winter that is!)