Sewing with Hemp linen. A quick finish to the sleeve.

Hemp Linen (40% Hemp/60% Organic Cotton) is a joy to work with.  The more that it is worked, the softer it becomes.DSC02057

I have worked with this before with great success.  The lace is a cotton 1” that I picked up years ago.  When folded and sewn over the materials edge the finish is clean and wears really well.  DSC02060

One of the property’s of hemp woven material is that the hemp will have a tendency to bind to itself naturally during wear.  So it will not come apart under the lace. 

I will be using this technique on the neck for this hemp shirt. 

DSC02065

The Fix: The Folkware Walking skirt in Hemp Summer cloth revisited

I made this skirt 3 summers ago and it is has held up well. Mostly, the hem is tattered and needs a reworking to bring it to todays standards

 

The starting point ( was worn for the day and needs an ironing to freshen it up)

Hemp Summer Cloth 3 years on

The tattered hem and lace insert.
the place to start

 

New hem pinned in place and a taste of the lace for added length.

DSC01448

The lace, it took a while to weave the ribbons in place.

the lace and ribbonribbons & lace

 

Hand stitched into place for a even and discrete finish.

Hand sewing

Finished the lace and tucked away the ends for a nice finish. The indisde finishThe front finish

 

Re-stitched the placket.

Mending the planket

 

The last finishing touch. Added a 2mm burgundy ribbon woven though the inserted lace to give the skirt an even finish. 

The last bit of ribbon to put it all together

Finished. 

Finished detailsFinished ( I know, the iron will come out!

 

Should get another 3 summers out of this fix!

0336 Princess Slip

I created a muslin after altering the pattern to better sculpt my curvaceous  figure.  I added to all seams 5/8” to accommodate my larger body size leaving the shoulders as per the pattern. Also for ease I increased the under arm by 1 inch at the lower seam.  I only need to take it in a bit at the top corner of each front seam so there is no gaping when worn and I added a 1/2” tuck in the seam allowance  at the top center front panel for modesty. This little dart folds the soft cotton down into the space between the breast when resting. I increased the shoulder seam by 1/4 in to keep the shoulders seams in place.

Once I had it together my lopsidedness showed up. A slight reposition of the right breast seam evened it out enough for it not be a noticeable flaw.

To be honest I couldn’t bring myself to deface the elegance of the cut with any lace. I have a rather large stash of vintage lace and an equally impressive find of polyester lace and not one piece said “Put me there on this red slip!”  I looked at each one and against the deep red, nothing jumped, danced or screamed to say anything but try again on other fabric.

The Back view with the buttons pinned into place.  I decided to use mother of pearl buttons as a modest embellishment. 24 in all and to get in and out of the garment I must slip if off the shoulders and spin the buttons to the front.  It works with this cut and I don’t need someone to help though I would not turn down the offer when it is given!

DSC01412

The finished slip.  Very simple with an awesome set of buttons down the back.  Sorry but no shots of the finished back at this time.  I can’t seem to get a decent shot of the back and hubby is at work so the one of it hanging will have to do.  Of note, I do not want to take it off at this time to put it on Daisy (the dress form) as it is too comfortable!

DSC01428

I am planning to recreate this pattern as a dress and I have some plum silk that I found at Value Village for a 9.99! Perfect! I have vintage cotton lace from 1905 a foundling from EBay a few years back and it will be stunning. That is if I can bring myself to implement the lace into the pattern. I will have to wait until I am working on it to decide. Though when I picture this dress is dose have a min of lace across the bust line in v shape and no more than that. Have to wait and see what comes.

Check List

description– a fitted princess cut slip 0336 Princess Slip
pattern sizing– this was a medium slip with plenty of ease,
instructions easy? the instructions were basic and easy to follow for a intermediate sewer.
what to like/dislike? Love the cut, very flattering for the fuller figure                   fabric used– a very fine 3oz cotton: great as a slip and only wearable as a dress on hot august nights when it is harder to see thought the fine fabric.
alterations/design changes? Added 5/8” to accommodate a 44 “ bust graded to keep the original shoulder with and center panel width.  I did a center tuck on the center front panel. For the underarms, I increased the bottom length by an inch keeping the shape and dimensions of the cut. To truly fit me, I should decrease the amount of fabric at the side hips but I love the swirle of fabric as I move and sit. recommend to others? Do this one, with a little skill you can have a hot dress!conclusion? class and style in a easy to follow cut.  I love it!
Pattern Name: 0336 Princess Slip
sewer’s skill: Intermediate ( beginner who has a lot of patience), the lace insertion is simple enough though it was not suited for this color.  The pleats also require patience but I would never wear the garment – too fancy for a simple bookkeeper!
rating & why, 1-5, 1-Not a Fan, 2 – So-So, 3 – Good/Average, 4-Better than Average, 5-I LOVED IT! and why? The cut was superior to princess cuts of modern patterns – a lot more curve and the fit through out is more for an active body.  I made a Burda princess cut dress a few years back and though it looks very good, it has not the ease or curves that this pattern has.
skill needed & why. A very patient beginner could work there way though this pattern but it is suited for an intermediate level of skill.                                    instructions easy? Change?  They instructions are basic and good.  Adding pictures can help the beginner.                                                                            Fit/sizing? As expected? Yes, there is a good bit of ease but the drape adds to the allure of this functional yet fitting garment.

I love this slip.  It will stay a slip unless my hubby talks me into lining it with some cream silk that he gave me.  either way, it’s a keeper! DSC01425