Folkware #209–Walking Skirt

The walking skirt front

The walking skirt hemThis is a fun skirt to make.  I have several that I wear – one in hemp summer cloth for summer and two in wool for winter.

Here is the post when I reworked the hemp summer skirt – https://austerity101.wordpress.com/2012/08/20/the-fix-the-folkware-walking-skirt-in-hemp-summer-cloth-revisited/

My partner found for me some red denim that has a velveteen brush like finish on the right side. Total cost $4.00 for the skirt. The tread was given to me and the closure was a find at a thrift store in a bag of buttons and such.

Patterns 001Patterns 007

The material is not part of the recommended list as it is normally too heavy but this is just a bit lighter than the regular denim so I went ahead with the cut.

The pattern is an easy sew except for the placket – it can be tricky. Here is a close up of the back seem just below the placket opening.

Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 028Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 027Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 029

The placket sewn to the extending flap, showing the opening , and a placement of where it will go on the back panels.

Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 026Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 024

A small clip is needed for the opening to function properly.  Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 021Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 030This is the trickiest part of the construction.  Attaching the bottom of the placket to the skirt while maintaining the top stitching on the placket itself.

Today 015The placket in place – I was not happy with the placket as it buckled at at the bottom opening so I ripped it out and cleaned it up.  Once finished only one button or in this case the hook will be necessary to secure my modesty!

In this shot above I have the back pleated but the end result was an overly large back side on an already large lady so I removed the pleats and inserted a gather as per the instructions.  To gather heavy material – use dental floss!  It holds forever and doesn’t break under the weight. Today 020I secure one end with a pin and pull so that I have an even texture along the line, baste to secure and ensure that there are no unsightly folds in the seam.

The basting after the gathering

the finished gather

The finished  gather.  (please note that this is the correct color of the fabric – I have too much still to do to correct each photograph.)

Red walking skirt construstion and morning dew 018Gentile has taken a liking to the ironing board and she is as stubborn as she is old so it can take a bit to get her to share the space!

For all of my waistbands I insert an elastic band the width of the finished band to keep the waistband from folding when I sit.  This allows for a long wearing waistband with the right amount of firmness at all times and no unsightly folds.The waistband

I ran over the basting with a 2.5 stitch to secure the waistband, clipped the edges ( perhaps a little too close) and the clip take two

slip stitched the waist band into place

Slip stiches

With the waistband secure, I moved on to the hem.  For a rare change, I actually ironed my allowance up.  Normally I just turn on the sewing machine and away I go.  As it is denim and with the a straight stich  on a denim hem has an annoying habit of turning up, and this can very hard to iron out..  To stop this I did an embroidery stich over the hem.  It adds color and dimension to this very red skirt and will keep the bottom smooth.

thanks  for taking the time to read about my adventure in sewing.

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The Skirt

 

The Pattern 1950 dress vintage 051413_Image_1

The Material –The vintage skirt - the pattern adjustment 007cotton and rayonThe vintage skirt - the pattern adjustment 006Adjusting the left front

                                   panel for a pocket!

 

 The Vintage skirt - 007

The Help

 

The Vintage skirt - 001

The pocket in a contrasting woven cotton strip.

 

The Vintage skirt - 009

The first look – workable!

 

The Vintage skirt - 014A belt could work.

 

The back pleatsThe Vintage skirt - 010

 

The Vintage skirt - 013The new pocket.

 

This is still a work in progress.

This morning

when I got dressed, I was pleased that everything I chose for this warm summer day I made from natural fibers.  Green silk camisole, folklore vintage pattern cotton tap shorts, folklore vintage pattern walking skirt hemp summer cloth skirt with insert of cotton laces just above the bottom hem and topped off with a bolero that I made from hemp summer cloth. The bolero is a ongoing work in progress but it is fun to ware until the afternoon heats up.

This evening, the bolero is put away for the heat of the day and I am about to finish the red cotton slip.  Just a firm ironing and the buttons that are the small mother of pearl buttons.  It should look pretty good!

Now for my Jacket

austerity101

 

 

Finished Jacket 3Finished Jacet 2DSC01350Finished Jacket 5

I tried it on for fit and it is good!  It will feel better when the outside temperature is below 10C!  It is now neatly folded in my cedar chest for the duration of summer.

 

The Starting Point:

I am good a finding what I need.  Sometimes it is not what I want but I do find it fills my needs. I have been picking up fabric at the local thrift shops for years.  I have many large pieces of wool for just such a  project.

To make my jacket I first needed to resize the pattern for my mature figure.  Just adding an inch to the pattern only worked with the hips and bust.  As the original pattern is for the wearer of corsets the waist needed to come in.  And not just in – the sides needed to be graded with shoulders being left at…

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The sewing Room;

DSC01067DSC01073

It is actually the kitchen table – the room is packed away for each dinner.

DSC01068  I shortened the skirt a bit with pin tucks at the bottom.  There are a few places that the folds are out of sync with the strips and I will work on them over the weekend – maybe!

Capture 2  I found this on Bells Archives as article in the CBC news online.  It is the traveling suite 1002, same sleeves, cuffs and two rows of buttons and in plaid.